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Woven, Dyed, Sewn

Textiles from the Sub-Saharan African Collection
McCormack Gallery
September 17, 2026
- January 2, 2027

Textiles are more than objects of adornment. They are records of knowledge, identity, history, and cultural expression. Woven, Dyed, Sewn: Textiles from the Sub-Saharan African Collection explores the remarkable diversity of textile traditions represented within the collection, highlighting the artistry, labor, and technical expertise required to transform natural fibers into works of visual and cultural significance. Spanning regions including Ghana, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Côte d’Ivoire, and Ethiopia, the exhibition reveals the many ways textiles communicate social status, community identity, spirituality, and artistic innovation.

The creation of textiles requires a sophisticated combination of skills passed through generations. From cultivating and preparing fibers to spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery, and sewing, each stage demands specialized knowledge and patience. Included in the exhibition are heddle pulleys, essential tools used in traditional loom weaving, which provide insight into the physical processes behind textile production. These tools serve as reminders that every woven surface represents countless hours of craftsmanship, precision, and creative decision-making.

Among the works on view, the Kuba textile mat stands as a remarkable example of the artistic excellence of Kuba textile traditions from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Created by Kuba artists, these textiles are celebrated as some of the most innovative and visually complex textile works in African art.

Unlike many woven traditions that emphasize repeated patterns or uniform designs, Kuba textiles are distinguished by their intricate geometric compositions, rhythmic variations, and remarkable attention to texture and detail. Through techniques including raffia fiber weaving, embroidery, appliqué, and cut-pile construction, Kuba artists transform humble materials into sophisticated works of abstract design.

The artistry of Kuba textiles holds a unique position within African textile traditions because of the extraordinary creativity and individuality expressed within each piece. Rather than serving only functional purposes, Kuba textiles often operate as prestigious artistic objects, reflecting the skill of their makers and the cultural importance placed on visual expression. Their complex patterns demonstrate a deep understanding of balance, movement, and composition, placing Kuba textile production among the most highly regarded traditions in African art.

Other works in the exhibition, including Ghanaian kente cloth and Ethiopian garments such as the kemis dress, further demonstrate the diversity of textile practices across the continent. Kente cloth, with its vibrant colors and symbolic patterns, has long been associated with identity, achievement, and social significance. Ethiopian garments reflect distinctive approaches to weaving and embroidery, where textiles play important roles in cultural and ceremonial life.

Together, the works in Woven, Dyed, Sewn celebrate textiles as both functional creations and artistic achievements. They reveal the ingenuity of textile makers whose expertise combines technical mastery, cultural knowledge, and creative vision.

Through woven fibers, dyed surfaces, and carefully sewn forms, these works preserve stories of place, people, and tradition while continuing to inspire appreciation for the extraordinary artistry of Sub-Saharan African textile heritage.

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